where have I been?

(here is a pic of me in Chugach Mountains right out side of Anchorage.Cleanest air, huge mountains, most beautiful sunshine....impossible not to smile the whole time we hiked around.)
(pic of me by the bush plane we took to the summit of Denali, which is the highest peak in North America. My jacket color coordinated with the plane so i looked extra cute that day!)


I am sure most of you have been asking yourselves where I have been....after getting a daily dose of me for about a month through my blog, I'm sure you all have been missing me.....it's hard being so loved. Just kidding, but seriously, I can't believe how many people read my blog. I love the comments and emails I received from everyone so thank you. I left Barrow and went to Anchorage to meet my mom. After spending about 10 days with my mom in Alaska, I am now back in Houston. My mom and I had such a great time. Here are some of the high points......
co-piloting a bush plane to the summit of Denali on the first clear day they have had in a very long time, drinking beers while watching kayakers paddle through some of the toughest rivers I have ever seen, hiking on a glacier and seeing black bears (i have never seen my mom move so fast!!), eating some of the freshest salmon three meals a day, cruising in the ocean looking at whales and bald eagles, hiking on trails I read about in National Geographic Explorer magazine (yeah, I am that cool), and, of course, purchasing illegal artifacts to display in my Houston apartment. Since I have been home, my living room has transformed into a sort of "den of animals." Nothing says "welcome to my home" like a caribou skin hanging above my couch and an Eskimo mask made out of polar bear hair.
I am happy to be home in the lower 48 and that first night of darkness here in Houston was great. I was gone for 33 very LONG days of sunshine. Unbelievable. A lot of my friends have asked if there really is light 24 hours of day. Let's just day my eyeballs have finally stopped burning. After my time in Alaska, I am more convinced than ever that I want to move up to Alaska for a couple of years after I graduate. Besides providing dental service to patients who really need it and appreciate it, blah, blah, blah..... it really is just too damn fun not to go back! I left too many trails un-hiked, too many salmon uneaten, and too many illegal presents to mail home not to go back.
I am now in clinic in Houston for the rest of the summer. I am back to my over scheduled, hectic life but I am so happy I was able to escape that for awhile up in Alaska. Looking back, I realize that going to Alaska was my attempt to make sense of this past year and everything that happened to me.... it has taken time and a roller coaster of emotions for me to cut loose any fixed idea that I had about death, about illness, about probability and luck, about good fortune and bad, about the ideas of marriage and children and memory, about grief, about the ways in which people do and do not deal with the fact that life does in fact end, about the shallowness of sanity, about life itself.
I'm pretty sure my blog should end here. No one wants to read about my daily adventures involving Houston dental patients or the number of times Biggie pees in my apartment. But, the next goal is the Houston Marathon January 2008.. Perhaps I could set up a profitable little online betting pool about whether I will finish the marathon or not.....stay tuned.

My heart's anniversary

I would just like to point out that tomorrow will be 4 months out from my second heart surgery. Complete happiness is an understatement when I think about where I was only a year ago compared to this year. So, I have decided for the four month marker to go ahead and tie a rope around my waist and jump into the Arctic Ocean after cutting out a hole of ice. Nothing says "thank you heart" like freezing water in the middle of the Arctic, that's what I always say. Let's see if this new heart of mine can really take a lickin and keep on tickin!

(Mom, I am just kidding about jumping in now...... After reading my last blog, she made me promise I would not tie a rope around my waist and jump into the open, frozen water.Evidently she thinks it will be a little too "dangerous.")

Members Only

The polar bear club is a very exclusive club to join. To become a member, you must submerge yourself completely under water in the Arctic Ocean. The patch and membership certificate are totally worth any numbness or potential long term loss of sensation one might experience.
So, in order for me to join, I had to go talk to a guy named Joe.
Before calling Joe, I was not sure how this is going to work because the Arctic Ocean is still completely frozen from the beach out for a mile. It is not realistic drive a mile on the ice to jump at the edge of the ice for two reasons: 1. the ride back on the snow machine soaking wet would be horrible and 2. this is the same location I watched polar bears feast on a dead seal. The first reason being the one that really pulls the plug on that idea.
To say that Joe is a "character" would be the understatement of the year. He owns a two story house where he lives in the upstairs and has a museum downstairs. He told me a few guys from the Smisfonian museum down in DC (you probably know it as the Smithsonian) came to catalog his museum. They planned a 2 day trip to Barrow for this but ended up staying 3 weeks because he has so much stuff. The things in his museum include a 15 foot polar bear that he shot and stuffed, a family of squirrels hunted and stuffed, and a bag of marbles. So I go see Joe about an "alternate" plan for joining the polar bear club. Here were his proposals:

1. drive 10 miles on snow machines to a river that is probably melted. technically the river is part of the arctic ocean so my membership would be legitimate. while i jumped into the river, he would build a fire for me for when i got out. i could then cover myself in polar bear skins for the 10 mile ride back home while soaking wet.

2. he will measure me and then take his chainsaw and cut a circular hole of ice by the beach. he would tie a rope around my waist so that when i jumped in, he could pull me right out. when i asked him if he had ever done that before, he said yes. He measure the girl but was hung over that day so he only cut a hole as big as her. he thought the cold water would shrink her. (the way he described this next part is so hilarious i am laughing out loud thinking about it). instead, he described how she plumped up as soon as she went under the hole. it took him 1:30 minutes to finally cut more ice and get her out. he said the whole time she was stuck in the ice, all he could think was, "oh thank the lordy that she paid beforehand. I will have to use that money to call long distance to her family because she is going to die" Obviously, I entertained this idea, but after the story about this girl, I had some doubts.

I told him I wasn't really crazy about either idea but I really wanted to join the Polar Bear Club. He said he would work on some more ideas and get back to me.Joe explained that he really needs the money so he wants to find a way for me to join and pay my membership dues. Just so you know, it costs $10.....he will not be making big bucks on this at all. So, I am waiting for Joe to think of something else and give me a call. I only have 3 days left here in Barrow so the pressure is on. For some reason, I think Joe might pull through with an idea of how we can make this work. Stay tuned on this one......

POLAR BEARS!!!!

The REAL reason I came to Barrow is to go polar bear hunting.....not to hunt and kill, but to stalk, follow, and take pictures. The whole time I have been here, my eyes have been wide open.
Last Saturday night, I spent the whole night at the northern most tip of the United States with my binoculars waiting for polar bears. There is a gigantic pile of whale bones that the natives place out there after removing all of the meat after each whaling season. Due to global warming, the polar bears are forced out of hibernation earlier and must look for food in the villages. The natives place the whale bones out away from town so that the bears can feast there instead of looking through dumpsters in the town. Some people think that there are more polar bears than usual because they are more visible when, in reality, there is a significantly lower number of polar bears. We just see more because they can't survive in the Arctic Ocean as easily as before. Most natives think that they should be placed on the endangered list, but that idea was lost in translation and a law to increase oil drilling was created instead....but that issue is a whole other blog. Anyway, I was sitting out at the point waiting for these bears to come nibble on the whale bones. While out there, I had a snack of whale intestine (a delicacy I am told). The whale intestine was very chewy and tasted like squid. It actually was not that bad though. I had a great time just sitting and waiting at the top of the world for some polar bears feasting on whale intestine and resting on a shot gun in case the bears came too close. Well, the bears did not show up Saturday night and I was very disappointed.
On Sunday, I was invited to a Memorial Day BBQ. Not quite the same type of BBQ I am used to in Texas, but such a great time. It gave me an opportunity to meet some of the other doctors at the hospital. It is difficult to know when the appropriate time to leave is though when it is 24 hour sunlight. I went to the BBQ around 3 and just chatted away. I was having a great time. The host then said she was tired and going to bed. When I looked at the clock, I realized it was 10:30 pm.....I thought it was maybe 7. The sun really throws me off.
Another dentist offered to take me to look at bears after this. We weren't out for 10 minutes before we spotted a mother polar bear with two cubs!!! It was amazing. They were about a half mile out on the ice. The mother was eating a seal and the two cubs were wrestling....they were small and very clumsy. The mother feasted for about 45 minutes. the ice was completely covered in the blood of the seal. The mother would periodically get on her hind legs and smell into the air. We were a little concerned that she noticed us (I am one of the LOUDEST and SMELLIEST people I know! jk, kind of) but we didn't scare her off. I was determined to get the perfect picture, but was so excited! After the mom finished eating, the two cubs nursed for about hour. I couldn't believe that we got to see all of this without scaring them off or without them noticing us.
I was so excited to see these polar bears. I have pretty much told everyone I have talked to about my bear story, including one of my patients that does not speak English, but I am sure he got the message. I am going to try to post some pics of these bears later this afternoon.
Don't worry, I did bear spray with me which is effective if the bear gets within 30 feet of you. I am pretty sure I would have peed myself and/or run away screaming before a HUGE mama bear got within 30 feet of me though.

It really is a small world.....

It's funny how small our world really is. Today I had lunch with a cardiologist from Children's Hospital in Houston who is beginning to work at the hospital here in Barrow. He has a son working at MD Anderson. Needless to say, we knew a lot of the same people. He was pretty surprised (I don't know if that is the right word) when I told him my connection to Children's Hospital this past year. I love how you can meet certain people at certain times in your life who do not know you at all but can understand you and your experiences so well.

The greatest story ever told

I had SUCH a fabulous weekend full of crazy stories, polar bear hunting, whale festivals, and bbq's. this is my last week in Barrow as I fly to Anchorage late Saturday to meet my mom to explore the southwestern portion of Alaska for another week before returning to Houston. As much as I miss everyone, I am a little sad my time in Barrow is about to end as I feel like I have made some truly unique friends here and seen and done things that you can only do in Barrow.
(I'm saving my best polar bear story for another blog so stay tuned people)

Here is a great story I heard from one of the natives while I was stalking polar bears on a 4 wheeler. Before I tell it, I must give you a little background. This guy's two cousins and uncle are part of a whaling group that have not captured a whale yet. The rule regulated by the International Whaling Commission says that Arctic slope is allowed 22 shots at a whale. That does not mean 22 whales are killed and captured, but basically they are allowed to throw 22 times. Right now, the Arctic is at 19 so they have 3 throws left in the spring whaling season. When each crew sees a whale from their ice camp, they quickly jump into their boats to pursue it. When they get close to the whale, they shoot a harpoon with dynamite on the end into the whale. The crew then stops to bless the whale and thank the whale for turning itself over. After that, the crew brings the whale onto the ice and they divide the WHOLE thing to every member of the village. Well, that is ideally what is supposed to happen.
Here is a story I heard from one of the natives about his family.....pretty sure he was trying to flirt with me but his opening line was that he was 42 years old, lived with his mother, and his full time job was "staying off the dope." Also, I am pretty strict about my 8 tooth minimum for any guy, but that is not the story.
His family has not had any throws at a whale yet. They saw a whale from their ice camp and took off rowing in their boat. Their boat is covered in bearded seal skin and takes their wives over 100 hours to make. They harpoon the whale and the dynamite goes off. All three men stop to bless the whale and thank the whale for providing food and nourishment for their crew, families, and friends. They truly believe that a crew will only catch a whale if the spirit and energy is right. While they are praying, the whale jerks under the water and takes off pulling their boat quickly under water.......yes, their is a whale in the arctic ocean dragging a seal skin boat with it! The men try to get out of the boat but the force of the whale submerged them completely under water. They struggled to get their heads above water, but their muscles began shutting down due to the extremely cold temperatures of the water. These men were in the water for 6 minutes (10 minutes in this water at that temperature is death) before they are rescued by another whaling crew with a similar boat. All the men lived, but one suffered severe muscular damage and is unable to walk. Needless the say, the whale won. It is one of the greatest stories I have ever heard and, if I could tell you in person, you would understand how exciting really is.
My favorite part of the story is that these men are still out in their ice camp waiting to make another throw at a whale because they realize how important this whale is for the survival of the entire village during the winter.....talk about taking one for the team.

3 DAY WEEKEND....HERE I COME!!

I went to lunch with the receptionist, Kim, today to a place called Brower's Cafe. One of 3 or 4 restaurants here in Barrow. It was the best $16 cheeseburger I have had.....all of the food here is so expensive. The menu included American, Korean, and Mexican food. I guess since there are so few restaurants, they have to serve it all. No more debating about where to go or what kind of food anyone wants....go to Bower's and get pretty much anything you want.
On the way back from lunch, there was a high speed car chase. A large blue truck was being chased by three cop cars (probably the only cop cars in this town). I couldn't believe this moron was fleeing from the cops.....there is nowhere to go! we are surrounded by water and the ONLY way in or out of barrow is by plane and, literally, the top of the United States is only about 8 miles north of here. Where is he going? Kim explained that some people make tracks on the snow in their snowmobiles so they can get away. Evidently cop cars do not have 4 wheel drive. I don't know what this truck was thinking, but it was flying through Barrow trying to get away! I think if he did escape the cops, they should let him go because that would be an accomplishment. Escaping a chase on a frozen tundra with a population of 4,000 with 3 cop cars chasing you.....congratulations, sir, you do not have to pay that parking ticket after all.

Pretty excited about my 3 day weekend. I love getting a vacation when I am, technically, already on somewhat of a vacation. I am in Alaska for 4 weeks on a vacation and then they tell me I have a 3 day weekend of vacation on my vacation! How great is that? It's the small things that really get me excited.
I was invited to a 6 year old's birthday party tonight at the roller rink. I am totally going to dominate limbo on roller skates. these 6 years olds don't know who they are going up against!
I have a few more adventures planned for the rest of the weekend, but I might cancel them and duck tape my eyes shut so I can get some sleep. This 24 hours of sunlight is exhausting!